View Full Version : Strapjack installation
07-22-2012, 04:56 PM
I drilled the 1/2" hole to install theStrapjack for my new M1 only to find out that the body of the guitar is too thick. None of the
end piece od the strapjack sticks out of the tail block. What to do?
07-22-2012, 05:22 PM
I had the same problem with my J45. My solution was to use a small automotive hose clamp and a LARGE washer (probably about 1 1/2"OD) with an inside diameter that allowed the main body of the strapjack to fit thru. Then I clamped the hose clamp around the body of the strapjack, slid the washer on and adjusted it all so the jack stuck out just the right amount for the nut, etc to fit properly. The guys at Baggs (understandably) didn't approve of my solution. Their suggestion was to rout out the hole from the inside enough for the body of the jack to fit properly. That was WAY beyond the tools in my toolbox and the nearest qualified luthier was 5 hours away!
I had planned to use JB Weld around the hose clamp as extra insurance, but it hasn't proven necessary. I installed my M1A over a year ago and it's still a good tight fit and working just fine. The risk, of course, is that the jack COULD be pulled out thru the hole but I'm confident I have the clamp secured well enough that the odds of that happening are VERY slim.
07-22-2012, 08:55 PM
Thanks for answering. Not sure I completely understand your explaination. I'd like to try it though.
I did find the the jack housing could be unscrewed and extended more than I thought and it almost works. There is just enough threads sticking
thru to attach the strap button without using the nut they provided to seure the jack. Only the strapbutton is holding the jack on........I turned
the strap button around and used the reverse side because thats were the threads are exposed. It seems to be working.
07-24-2012, 01:05 PM
For thicker tail blocks, the best solution is to have the hole counter-sunk on the inside. As Dakota said, it's not easy and beyond the skill level and tool kit of most players or hobbyist guitar repairmen. While your method may illicit disapproval, what's most important is that the jack is secure with no damage to it or the guitar.
I thought the same thing when I first bought my M1A. I was convinced for weeks my tailblock was just too thick, but eventually realized you can unscrew the strapjack housing (maybe it's called the barrel?) to make the strapjack longer. I assumed when I bought it I could only screw it clockwise to shorten the strapjack to fit, but that's not so. I thought it was worth mentioning.
07-24-2012, 03:35 PM
You are correct. Often, installers use the barrel cover as a lock-nut to hold the internal hex-nut in position.
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